Japanese sewing patterns

After reading a lot about Japanese sewing patterns I purchased the book 'Stylish dress book: wear with freedom' which is a Japanese sewing book that has been translated to English. There are 26 patterns for dresses and tunics accompanied by simple line drawing instructions. 

I had heard that Japanese patterns come out quite large for size with lots of built in ease so traced out the smallest size for dress E. Even then I had to take the side seams in by about an inch or two to get a good fit. 

 

The dress is great with no zips or buttons needed. I altered the hem to make it more like a long shirt with a dipped hem and used French seams throughout to make the insides as pretty as the outside. Instead of the neck facings included in the pattern I used bias binding to finish the hem and neckline. I find neckline facings irritating, and they always seem to flip to the outside a little even when they are edge-stitched in place. The fabric, a medium weight cotton chambray is a coupon I picked up in Paris-and I think I still have 2 metres left for another day :) 

The back of the dress is made from two sections - a yoke at the top and the 'skirt' portion. The skirt section is supposed to be gathered to the yoke but given the weight of my fabric I thought it would look a little much to have lots of fabric gathered at the top of the skirt. I think this was a wise decision for the fabric, but if I make it again using a fabric with more drape I think I'd add the gathers back in. 

I love how simple the patterns in this book are, lots of them have made it to my sewing list. For now though maybe another dress E in a different chambray type fabric will have to move towards the top of the list. Perhaps I'll add the pockets included in the pattern to the next dress, because who doesn't love pockets in a dress! 

Carme blouses

On a recent trip to Paris I bought a few patterns by sewing pattern designer Pauline Alice, including the Carme blouse and Cami dress. I spent my evenings this week making a muslin version and then making a few fit adjustments to the Carme pattern. I added 2 inches to the body length and an inch to the sleeve length along with widening the shoulders by an inch on either side.

The pattern is very well designed with a pin tuck bib section at the front, sleeves with sleeve tabs to allow the sleeves to be rolled up, a button placket and a mao collar. This was my first experience with pin tucks and a button placket, but the sew along Pauline ran has excellent sew-along videos to help you every step of the way.

So after getting the fit just right I purchased a few meters of cotton to make my blouses. The first one is a soft 100% cotton which drapes nicely:

Blouse number 2- using 1.5 meters of 100% cotton fabric which is slightly thicker than the fabric used in the first blouse which makes it warmer.

I've already been out to get some more cotton for a few more blouses :)

Getting started

I've started this blog to document my knitting and stitching progress as I develop a handmade wardrobe. I started sewing in November 2013 after being inspired by all of the wonderful sewing blogs on the internet. There is so much inspiration out there and after spending months being inspired and researching I got myself a sewing machine- Janome DC3050, to get started. 

My first project was a Laurel dress by Colette patterns.

First ever me-made garment, the Laurel dress

Since then I have been learning plenty of new techniques using the internet and various sewing books. In January 2014 I learnt to knit, using tutorials on Vogue Knitting and the Lion Brand website. 

Rocky Coast Cardigan by Hannah Fettig

Miette cardigan by Andi Satterlund - knitting project no.1

Here's to a year filled with crafting adventure!